[T2] Disc brakes dragging
Bob accessys at smart.netMon Aug 17 08:40:27 PDT 2020
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FWIW I have had bad parts right out of the box so I wouldn't "trust" that a new part, any part, is working until inspected and tested Bob On Sun, 16 Aug 2020, Erik Burtis wrote: > "Thanks for all the input. All the parts are new save the steel brake > lines"- these coil be rusting from the inside out and causing a blockage, > but since the symptoms go away with the booster disconnecting, I don't > think this is your issue. > > " Erik, Where is the check valve you mentioned earlier? Is it in the M/C? or > were you referring to the vacuum check valve in line to the manifold?" > Yes, it's the one by the manifold. As Bob suggested, make sure it's > installed in the right direction. Memory is a little fuzzy but I think the > bentley has it backwards. Search the samba for the bentley mistakes > thread. The check valve should hold a vacuum for several minutes after you > turn the car off, overnight in some cases. So if you go back 5 min after > turning the bus off, press the brakes and the pedal should go down easi=y > for the first cycle or two. Then it'll become more difficult. > > " AND one more thing. In perusing the forums on the Samba I found a post > complaining of exactly the problem I'm having" Shoot the PO a message and > see if/how he solved it. > > There are some problems that show up with the new boosters verse rebuilt. > Call your vendor, maybe they have some suggestions? > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 4:29 PM Chris Dreike <cdreike at gmail.com> wrote: > >> Wow, Thanks for all the input. All the parts are new save the steel brake >> lines. The brakes worked fine before I installed the drop spindles. >> I looked up How works a brake booster. The brake fluid level is not >> dropping. There appears to be a weep hole at the bottom of the M/C mounting >> flange. No fluid dripping out. >> Yes the brakes are working fine with the vacuum line disconnected from the >> intake manifold. The vacuum check valve is new and working as I checked the >> function. >> The vent line is in good working order. Sadly the boot at the front of the >> booster is shot after an year and a half. Anyone know where to get a new >> one? I'll try Wolfsburg West tomorrow. >> >> Later today I will add a small shim between the M/C and the booster and see >> if that helps. The booster seems to be the problem. Will report back later. >> >> Erik, Where is the check valve you mentioned earlier? Is it in the M/C? or >> were you referring to the vacuum check valve in line to the manifold? >> >> AND one more thing. In perusing the forums on the Samba I found a post >> complaining of exactly the problem I'm having. New booster from Wolfburg ( >> I got mine from CIP1 and it looks to be the same manufacturer) and his disc >> brakes were dragging. I did not see a solution on that thread however there >> were a lot of posts saying to have your old OEM booster rebuilt rather than >> buy a new one as the new ones are problematic. >> >> Cheers, >> Chris >> >> On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 7:10 AM Jamie <jrivers at globalserve.net> wrote: >> >>> Inside the booster, there is a valve, opens on brake application and >>> allows vac to assist movement Of cylinder in master cylinder >>> >>> If fluid is in that area, it will hold the port open,, and keep brakes >>> applied while vacuum is available >>> >>> and when more fluid gets in there ,,A slight tap of the pedal will cause >>> the vac to depress it and pull it out from under your foot, and apply >>> brakes fairly hard! >>> >>> Sounds to me that there is fluid that has bypassed seal on master ,,, >> over >>> the years,, so you donât notice a recent drop in fluid in the reservoir,, >>> >>> Pull the master (loosen off far enough) and field fab a dip stick from >> box >>> board to slide into booster below the master .. see if there is fluid in >>> there >>> I donât worry about a little fluid,, >>> >>> If there is a âlotâ <relatively speaking,, Iâve devise a way to siphon/ >>> wet vac out the fluid ... a u shaped steel line ,, >>> There isnât much room ,, >>> >>> Of course , if there has been a recent drop in reservoir level,, then a >>> master cyl repair/ replacement is in order >>> >>> My take on it,, Jamie >>> >>>> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:51 AM, Erik Burtis <ewdb92 at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> I was thinking about this problem early this morning. Let's see: You >>> said >>>> you replaced all the brake lines, so unless dirt got into the system at >>>> that time or there is a defect, they shouldn't be the issue.. The >>> problem >>>> went away when you disconnected the brake booster. I think this rules >>> out >>>> blockage in the lines or brake fluid issues. This sounds like a >> buildup >>> of >>>> vacuum to me and when you stop driving and press the brakes, you >> release >>>> the vacuum. It can happen if the check valve is in backwards; can also >>>> happen if the booster vent line is blocked (did it get pinched during >>> your >>>> spindle work?). Do both front brakes drag? If so, also an indication >>> this >>>> is not line related. Maybe a failed booster would hold extra vacuum, >> but >>>> it seems to me that they do the opposite. One of the tests for a >> failed >>>> booster is a change in rpms when you press the brake pedal. >>>> Erik >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> type2 mailing list >>>> type2 at type2.com >>>> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> type2 mailing list >> type2 at type2.com >> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > >
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