[T2] re-wiring '69 singlecab

[T2] re-wiring '69 singlecab

c.dreike c.dreike at verizon.net
Wed Nov 29 11:00:46 PST 2017


I like Thomas & Betts terminals.
I believe those are what McMaster Carr sells.

Chris


On 11/29/2017 5:40 AM, Kevin Guarnotta wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> Do you have some crimpers you recommend? I got one of those ratcheting crimpers (Ancor 701030 Double ratcheting crimp tool) - it works ok - but not great, seems like I always need to use the smallest size for every crimp. I don't mind spending $65 on one - if it is going to be a lot better than the one I have. $150-$200 is too rich for me, and like you said, probably isn't worth it. But maybe it is?
>
> Do you have a good source for AMP PIDG series terminal ends? I see tons of connector kits online, some with built in heat shrink - which is my personal favorite. But it is hard to tell the quality by looking at pics online.
>
> How did they do those original style crimps, with the sort of stress relief built in? I assume another specialized tool? I am anticipating needing to cut some wires, and extend them. Any suggestions on best practice for this.
>
> -Kevin Guarnotta
> Jamaica Plain, MA
>
> ’78 Westy
> '69 Singlecab
> '65 Ez-camper
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Anderson [mailto:wvukidsdoc at yahoo.com]
> Subject: Re: [T2] re-wiring '69 singlecab
>
> Heck not worth the effort folks, I too used to solder and heat shrink, and you need the heat shrink because solder WILL fatigue with time, if movement and vibration, why they don’t use it in aircraft applications.  But in todays world, China to the rescue, a perfectly acceptable medium grade crimper set with 5 die sets to do insulated, non insulated, molex, etc., can be had for $28 Amazon Prime, will last your one buses lifetime.   A nicer set you could use day in, day out, about $65, will crimp to an acceptable high pressure aircraft level, leave no free space air/moisture for corrosion.  No need to spend $150-200 for an AMP branded one with only one die set now days, no need to pull off insulated plastic and solder unless you want factory appearance.  Better, faster, smarter, I do spend a few extra bucks on good terminal ends, either real AMP PIDG series, or ripoffs (listed usually as marine grade) with a full continuous compression sleeve around the split formed terminal as that is really what makes the difference for a true MIL-SPEC installation.
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
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