[T2] Coolers, Fridges, and Electricity

[Mike Benthin]

You do not need stranded wire for the 110v wiring- note the Westfalia 
fridge converter/plug to van has ordinary solid romex- what counts is 
the wiring be well attached, not hanging and bouncing.
    We also own a Roadtrek class B, it has solid wiring throughout.  It 
came with an Onan generator, a real pain as one needs to exercise it 
monthly at least or the slip rings tarnish, the voltage regulator keeps 
trying, and eventually burns up. They are loud compared to the vehicle 
engine.
The current trend is to have an engine based generator (basically 
another alternator coupled to an inverter) - good for gas engines, bad 
for diesel. If you use an inverter, you need very heavy wiring (#2-4) to 
go even 8 feet from the battery, as voltage drop is significant at the 
amps you are drawing from the battery.  A spare battery usually uses an 
isolator, basically a high amperage (can take full output of alternator) 
switch that lets the house battery in to the charging system when 
driving, but disconnects it when stopped.  The wiring from it to the 
spare battery is 1/4" thick! The small relay sold by Bus Depot works, 
but it would take too many hours of charging for the small amount of 
current its small gauge wiring will pass.  You would need an external 
charger after a few hr trip after a weekend of use, or it will sulfate 
from not being charged enough. Any RESTING battery should be 12.7v if 
charged and healthy, 13.2 if you just took it off the charger.

MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
78 VW Westfalia Camper