[T2] Coolers, Fridges, and Electricity

[Susanne]

A few things about inverters...

one - they're a "constant draw" item - even if there is no "load" being supplied, as long as its on, it's drawing.  The higher the rated output, the more this latent draw is - Example: I had a 250 watt inverter to run a boombox.  Powered it off my lighter socket with a regular lighter plug (as supplied with the unit), no problem.  I then decided I wanted to electrify my rig, so put in a 1500 watt powerhouse , and to test it, and used the lighter plug and wires to test it.  Bottom line - the plug (or wires, I dunno) weren't enough to  allow enough juice for the thing to even power up!  

Two - Because of this, if you don't already have a second battery in your bus, it might be time to put one in, along with the "separator" to keep it charged, but keep it from draining your main (starter & Headlights) battery when being used.  You really don't want to pull your battery dry out in the middle of a campout in BFE.  

Three - If you electrify - use high quality stranded wire.  While normally stranded is a no-no, it will withstand the vibration of the vehicle a whole lot better than solid-core conductor.  Install it just like you would household electrics - junction boxes, conduit (well attached to the underside of the pan or however you decide to run it) etc.  This is serious business - it's less about "electrifying" your bus than having a wire overheat and giving you a not-so-nice tear-jerker of a bonfire, so DO NOT SKIMP on this part.

YMMV and whatnot, but when I did this to my '77, it was like night and day - well, the convenience of 110 throughout the bus was, anyway!  It was, honestly, a PITA to do, but when all was said and done, it was *well* worth the frustration.  (That one had a 1 KW unit in it that ran nearly everything, set up to my deep cell battery and charged off the alternator.  ad power from the bunk to the kitchenette to the dashboard.  And yes, I'd do it again!)