[T2] Kadron issue

[Al Brase]

Better yet, just pull the wire from the points to the coil. Nothing hot to
tape off, but there will be NO SPARK. 2nd best is to ground the wire from
the coil. This will allow the secondary voltage to ground at a low
voltage.Pulling off the coil wire and not grounding it lets the secondary
voltage go sky high and that will eventually break down the insulation in
the high voltage side.


On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 2:00 PM, Dave Gillingham <dave at coronado-realty.com>
wrote:

> Thought I would share the resolution of this issue:
>
> It turns out the float needle valve was sticking – both the old one and a
> new one.  I had already checked the fuel pump, but when I pulled the carb
> top and tested it, nothing was coming out.  The check valve could easily be
> operated manually, and even blowing on the fuel inlet opened it, but the
> pressure from the fuel pump wouldn’t do it.  So, the good news is I found
> the problem.
>
> The bad news:  I had “adjusted” the float thinking it might be prematurely
> closing the needle valve.  When I got a correctly operating needle valve in
> the carb, I seriously flooded the engine.  Not wanting to crank a
> potentially hydraulically locked engine, I pulled the plugs on that side,
> and cranked the engine, but forgot to disconnect the distributor.
>
> You guessed it - pretty impressive fire.  Naturally, it happened just as
> my wife was walking by with a load of groceries.  Not sure who was more
> scared.  I was trying to beat down the flames with a towel, and yelled at
> her to grab the fire extinguisher.  She didn’t know where it was, so I
> grabbed it and it worked like a champ.  It had been hanging by my garage
> door for 20+ years untouched!  Fortunately, other than some pink powder,
> the only real damage seemed to be to the engine seal – which readily
> melts.  I replaced all of the gas lines and fuel filter as a precaution
> anyway.
>
> So, lessons learned:  1) Don’t crank your engine without removing the
> distributor cap unless you want it to start, and 2) make sure you have a
> fire extinguisher handy at all times.
>
> Carry on!
>
> Dave Gillingham
> Owner/Broker
> Coronado Island Realty
> Office: 619-435-0145
> Mobile: 619-992-5318
>
>
>
> On 10/3/17, 8:35 PM, "Jack Dinan" <jdinan at cox.net> wrote:
>
>     As I recall, the only two things between the fuel line and the float
> bowl are the mesh filter and the check valve that is operated by the float.
>
>     So the sequence of tests is as follows.
>
>     Pull the rotor in the distributor so the engine can’t start.
>     Remove the fuel line from the carb and direct it into a jar.
>     Crank the engine.
>     If no fuel squirts out, the restriction is somewhere in the line.
>     If fuel does squirt out, reconnect the line to the carb.
>     Unscrew the six bolts that hold the top to the carb body.
>     Lift the top enough to let you observe underneath. The check valve
> shaft should drop down.
>     Crank the engine. If no fuel squirts out of the check valve, the
> obstruction is in that valve or somewhere in the short path to the mesh
> filter.
>
>     It’s been years since I messed with my Kadrons, so others will have to
> double check this procedure.
>
>
>     > On Oct 3, 2017, at 11:19 PM, Dave Gillingham <
> dave at coronado-realty.com> wrote:
>     >
>     > For some reason, one of my Kadron carbs is not allowing gas into the
> float bowl.  I discovered the filter was in backwards (rookie mistake)but
> even when that was corrected, no gas in the float bowl.  I thought the new
> float valve might be sticky, so I reinstalled the old one.  The fuel pump
> is pumping gas.  Any ideas?
>     >
>     > Dave
>     > 73 Panel
>     >
>     > Sent from my iPhone
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