[T2] alternator/regulator fault(s)

[david raistrick]

>      The local autoelectrician had the vehicle only an hour when he
> concluded the fault is in the alternator (which includes the regulator,
> housed within the alternator).

If the alternator has a built in regulator, it's a later style "one
wire" (2 wires).  (since this is a 1600dp upright motor..)

> Bentley implies it's easy to remove  -  but has anyone found any fishhooks
> in removal or replacement?

Other than the dropping the engine part?  Nope.  :)

It's possible to do it without, but honestly it's more pain than its
worth unless you're stuck on the side of the road.


>      As a fallback, has anyone by any chance found a recent alternator that can slot in as a replacement?

AFAIK bosch still sells new and rebuilt for that.  It's the AL82N.
Obviously your suppliers down under might be a bit thinner, but:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL82N-New-Alternator/dp/B000BZIJP2

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BOS-AL82N

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bosch,AL82N,alternator+/+generator,2412

>      Has anyone experienced this failure mode?  Any suggestions please?

I'd double check the field wire connection (the small one of the 2 on
the alt) and make sure it's getting full battery voltage when the key
turns on.   It could be intermittent or heavily corroded somewhere.
And, of course, check the big wire too.   Not sure how an upright 73
would be wired - but in effect the big wire heads to the +.  Either by
way of the starter or right to the battery terminal.

Beyond that - check for a slipping belt, too.

Otherwise - it's probably a regulator failure.  (that can be diagnosed
directly, but I dont recall off hand how)   The internal regulator IS
replaceable - but it's on the small end near the fan.

There's a diagram in here:

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=423204