[T2] Door gasket

[Bob Pratt]

I got the gasket on the door last night! I should have but the door back on at the same time but I didn't have any help available to do that. My Son in Law came by after work this evening and held the door in place while installed the Allen screws. I had to readjust the area around the door check. I carefully pulled up that area, re-glued it pushed the gasket in and closed the door. Hopefully it will stay. The thick part of the gasket was interfering with closing the door.

Bob

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:51 PM, Ned Savoie <ned at harbourlight.com> wrote:
> 
> No problem, Bob. Let us know how it goes.
> 
> 
> Ned
> 
> --
> 
> Ned Savoie
> Creative Director
> 
> Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
> Savvy Software, Inc.
> 621A Islington Street
> Portsmouth, NH 03801
> 
> [Telephone] 603.427.2821
> [Facsimile] 603.427.0938
> [Mobile] 603.828.2400
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 5:04 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:
>> Thanks for all the info Ned! It's suppose to be nice the next week or so. I have Brazilian gaskets, but now I'm wondering if I should buy the German ones and install the Brazilian ones until I start to prime and paint "Myles."
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>>> On Apr 6, 2017, at 5:28 PM, Ned Savoie <ned at harbourlight.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey Bob,
>>> 
>>> I have new seals. Still haven't installed them. But when I asked a few years ago I got some good info:
>>> 
>>> Hey all,
>>> 
>>> I have my new front door seals from BD. I ordered the German ones. Having a tough time finding best practices for installation. Wash off the powdery coating or leave it? Only glue where necessary in corners or also add some glue in the channels?
>>> 
>>> Any advice or websites that cover this would be helpful. I've checked Samba, Ratwell, IAC, etc. and not found any consistent advice or how-to.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Ned
>>> 
>>> ----------
>>> 
>>> From John Anderson:
>>> Ned, I can say to how they were initially installed, and how I've done em.
>>>  
>>> Wipe off the powder with damp cloth, but don't kill yourself.  I wipe round once, then wipe the back (glued) surface once more round.  I put the smallest drip of purple cleaner in a gallon of hot water, moderately squeezed out towel.  In WV (and in AK I'd do the same but haven't installed a set yet up here) I tossed them in the clothes dryer for 10 minutes wrapped in a zip tied old pillow case.  In a warm land, lay em out on the driveway.  3M weatherstrip cement, per instructions, entire way round.  That is how them came, and in fact getting out the old adhesive is a real PITA, plastic scraper tool and laquer thinner helps to get the old glue out first.  A 2" wide plastic putty knife helps to work em in.  Get them seated COMPLETELY or else your doors won't close.  That happens even with the BD German ones, but much worse with the SA crap.  Be happy you sprung the extra for the German.  Rust in the channel of course needs dealt with and can be a real pain as it often involves the overlapping layers and is hard to really treat.
>>>  
>>> Be amazed at how solidly the doors thunk shut at the end.
>>>  
>>> John
>>> 
>>> ------------
>>> 
>>> From Jim Thompson:
>>> 
>>> One other experienced tip -  Even with the seals fully and correctly installed, you will find the doors difficult to close.  This is normal and they need time to fully "seat" in place. A little known fact is that when seals were installed on the production line, VW employed a few people to go up and down the line opening and closing the doors to "seat" the seals as best as possible.  In addition, completed Buses (and Bugs/Type 3s) were often sitting with their doors closed during transport to the US (and beyond) further allowing the seals to "seat".  By the time they arrived at the dealers, the doors were easier to close (relatively speaking).
>>> 
>>> In a recent install of these door seals on a 71 Bus here at Airhead Parts, we didn't remove the talcum powder, we just installed them dry with 3M cement in most, but not all spots in the channel.
>>> 
>>> One further note:  You may find the door just slightly "sticking" out and not flush with the body with new seals.  Resist the urge to re-adjust the striker plates as eventually after the seals "seat" the door will eventually become flush.  Keep in mind that when VW installed doors and did all of the necessary adjustments, it was done without and before the seals were installed.
>>> 
>>> Just my nickel's worth :)
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Ned
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> Ned Savoie
>>> Creative Director
>>> 
>>> Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
>>> Savvy Software, Inc.
>>> 621A Islington Street
>>> Portsmouth, NH 03801
>>> 
>>> [Telephone] 603.427.2821
>>> [Facsimile] 603.427.0938
>>> [Mobile] 603.828.2400
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 5:12 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:
>>>> Thanks for the info Kevin. Can you remember if the groove in the gasket goes over the lip of the channel?
>>>> 
>>>> Bob
>>>> 
>>>> > On Apr 6, 2017, at 3:15 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > Installing gaskets. I’m not sure about this gasket in particular, but I have some experience installing similar gaskets.
>>>> > I suggest you start in the middle and push the gasket into place. Then push the ends in place too. Now push the gasket into place by cutting the distance between installed points in half.
>>>> >
>>>> > It is very easy to start a gasket on one end to install, and inadvertently stretch the gasket as you install it. Then when you get to the end – you have a lot of extra gasket. Then you cut the extra off.
>>>> >
>>>> > A week or month later, the gasket shrinks a bit back to its original size, and now you have a gasket that is a bit too short!
>>>> >
>>>> > -Kevin Guarnotta
>>>> > Jamaica Plain, MA
>>>> >
>>>> > ’78 Westy
>>>> > '69 Singlecab
>>>> > '65 Ez-camper
>>>> >
>>>> >
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