[T2] Sharing - four problems; two solutions

[Dan Bessom]

Barry,
Check for corrosion on battery terminals and connections to starter.
Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 11:34 AM, MUTS <muts at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> Did you put a voltmeter on the battery before and after it is running? A healthy battery has a resting voltage of 12.7, 13.2 just after a full charge assuming all cells are good. Make sure there is water in all the cells that reach the vent slot in the side of the cell opening, but do not go above this slot, as you will spread out acid when charging. Running, the voltage should go to at least 13.2 or higher with healthy alternator and regulator.  BTW, the relay supplied for spare battery has too small wiring to aid with starting boost- you need battery cable sizing and a high amp switch like what I put in when our Roadtrek isolator died- these allow at least 30 amps to flow to spare battery when driving.
>  The bus dying when coming to a stop could be a vacuum leak in the brake line, causing the the bus to lean out when brakes are applied- especially when bus is cold. .  Our 75 bus also would stall at lights; it was a vac leak in the intake boots; she had to keep gunning it, or increase idle rpm's.
>  Bucking at speed or hills could be fuel pump issues, or blockage going to the fuel pump-you may have enough pressure/volume until you step on it, then it leans out.  We had a blocked gas tank on a trip from Cedar Pt Ohio- had to crawl home on back roads mostly 25 mph, as any throttle increase would make it want to stall- blew air up the gas line from fuel pump to temporarily unblock it, but it was flakes from a PO tank coating that came off and were too big to get to filter.  I vacuum cleaned the tank in situ and put a T in the line to make it easier to blow up air or check free flow of gas.
> 
> MUTS  = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver oboe, clarinet support
> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
> 
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