[T2] Oil weight

[MUTS .]

Access Bob will agree with me- I used Mobil 1 in the Roadtrek (8 cyl 
Chevy 3500) and milage went up 3 mpg. That's thrifty for a tight change 
oil every 5K engine, but expensive VW owners who change every 3k or less 
or 1500 mi with no filter, or when oil gets dirty in old engine.  Isn't 
that the point of synthetic oil (Mobil 1)- it is at the right viscosity 
to begin with, while regular oil is thicker at lower temps and will have 
trouble reaching the vital lubrication areas until it is runny enough. 
It also makes the engine work harder until warmed up, another reason mpg 
goes up with synthetic oil, where you can take off with less warmup time 
and engine laboring less saves gas.  The cooler bypass valve hastens the 
time until it is thin enough, as does the thermostat, which blocks air 
to the cylinders so the oil will get hotter faster.  So make sure the 
cooling flaps are closed until the engine reaches operating temps.  If 
you have failed thermostat/no cable, it is better to use a vice grip on 
the flaps rod the cable attaches to to keep the flaps closed. Unless you 
have the wierd replacement thermostat that fail with flaps closed!  BTW, 
I remember why I had trouble with straight 30 wt- the bypass valve stuck 
open and the oil cooler seals failed....saw that drip, THEN checked 
bypass valve #@(*#^%%  Remember that the type 2 busses after 72 have a 
volume control valve also, which regulates oil pressure to the main 
bearings?
Using a multivis oil IS better in winter as it will allow a faster 
warmup with oil reaching the vital areas sooner.  The issue with 
multiweight oils and air cooled vehicles is that multivis oils fail upon 
overheating to lowest viscosity- so if all your driving in winter is 
mostly around town, use it- if mostly highway getting to a ski area, 
then it is work Mobil 1 or watch those cyl head temps.

MUTS  = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver oboe, clarinet support
93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
78 VW Westfalia Camper