Re: Mike West - Straightness of rod..

Posted by Mike West

Date
Tue, 4 Mar 1997 08:09:11 -0800
From
Mike West <mwest@CDSNET.NET>
Subject
Re: Mike West - Straightness of rod..

Hi Mike

Im after a little advice from you but thought that it may benefit other
members of the list as well.
I have a shaft that I have to determine whether it is straight or not. I
have a DTI and stand and thats it...whats the cheapest way of finding out
whether this thing is straight or not? I have heard that rollling it on a
sheet of glass would help but what should I be looking for?

Your advice is welcome and much appreciated.

Nick, you neglected to tell me what shaft or rod so now I have to
do all of them and hope you aren't talking about a shotgun.

The lowly Pushrod is first: Runout is .3mm (.012")
If you're using heavy valve springs, cut that number in half.

This one is easy enough to see on a piece of flat glass or even a kitchen
table. 12 thousandths is easy to see with the eye when you
roll it.

The cam shaft is next and now you need the dial indicator with stand
a pair of "V-blocks" and a surface plate about 12" square.

Setting the v-blocks on #1 and #3 bearing surfaces, you measure the runout
on the bearing in between.

Should not exceed .02mm (.0008").

On to the crankshaft: set it up on the same bearings and measure out
there in the middle on the #2 .

A new crank should have 00.00 runout, per Bentley.

A wear limit is set for this and should be not more than .03mm (.0012").

Equipment as indicated above should run you $200 for plate and v-blocks.
Not practical for one unit.

Any decent machine shop should do this for you for the cost of a
few minutes labor. Say 15 minutes.

Bob Hoover is pretty sure this bent crank thing is the major cause
of low miles on rebuilt engines. More so than Align-boring.

I would have to agree, particularly if it isn't even checked.

Anyway, run it down to a competent shop and have them check it.
It really is cheap insurance.

west

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