[T2] [Q] Heat Resistant Foam

[T2] [Q] Heat Resistant Foam

c.dreike c.dreike at verizon.net
Sat May 12 15:18:58 PDT 2018


Hi,
I used the NASA insulation on the roof of my engine compartment.
Seems that Home Depot sells it.  Here is a link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-24-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11424/100661257?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD22%7C22-4_INSULATION%7CGeneric%7CPLA%7CAllInsulation%7c71700000033760329%7c58700003913725483%7c92700032580649969&gclid=Cj0KCQjwodrXBRCzARIsAIU59TI5qvaZa7V0r0NfTpZ7J92_njNlvOyCw4Eg75G765YM642NmbhZqqIaAndgEALw_wcB&dclid=CIfk-N-RgdsCFQnqZAod1IMKpw

It looks like the same stuff I have here. I took my propane Bernzomatic 
to it and it charred, flamed slightly and then self extinguished. This 
is per the specs I have on my roll. Seems that at the time I purchased, 
it was approved for aircraft.

Regards,
Chris
64DD Kamper Kit


On 5/10/2018 10:33 AM, David C Matthews wrote:
> Also working on the engine compartment and thinking about how to insulate
> the ceiling. Noticed on an unrelated project that spray-able foams (i.e.
> Great Stuff) do not stick to plastic. That means you can use plastic to
> provide an expansion barrier when applying foam, peeling off the plastic
> once the foam is cured.
>
> Applying this technique to the ceiling of the engine compartment, plan on
> temporarily attaching plastic drop cloth to the ribbing (probably with
> rubber cement). Foam will then be squirted into the "mold" by poking the
> application nozzle through the plastic. Once cured, the plastic will be
> peeled and the rubber cement scrubbed off.
>
> The question is whether the fire-block types of foam will provide the
> necessary thermal characteristics. Found two fire-block types of spray-able
> foam, and they each are supposed to handle temperatures up to 240-250
> degrees F.
>
> Is that sufficient?
>
> Have not put a thermometer in the engine compartment (yet).
>
> David
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