[T2] 2nd gear problems

[Ned Savoie]

Let me know if you haven't gotten it working, and I can check my setup to
see if I can give you any insight.

Cheers,


Ned

--

Ned Savoie
Creative Director

Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
Savvy Software, Inc.
621A Islington Street
Portsmouth, NH 03801

[Telephone] 603.427.2821
[Facsimile] 603.427.0938
[Mobile] 603.828.2400

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 5:31 PM, david raistrick <keen at icantclick.org>
wrote:

> > This has been suggested. I guess I don’t really know what to look for –
> I was thinking it would be obvious. But based on your description – it
> could be broken, and I can’t quite see how. I’ve got to travel the next few
> days, but I’ll take a closer look at the rear shift coupler.
>
> the (late style ) coupler basically a cage and pin.  one end connects
> to the rod to the front, the other connects to the rod that goes into
> the nosecone.   there are two plastic/poly/rubber (depends..)
> rectangular bushings on each side that hold the pin in place in the
> cage.   These go bad - a little, or a lot.   when they do, the pin and
> the cage dont move at the same time. (nor as far)     The two set
> screws on each end should be tight, and held in place with bailing
> wire (which should be tensioned in such a way as to keep them
> tight...).    When those screws get loose (one or both), they will
> cause the recess in their rod to wear deeper and sometimes will never
> tighten enough to stop movement.
>
> stick the trans into any gear, grab a light, crawl under, then shoot
> some of your favorite fast evap parts cleaner on the coupler to try to
> clean some of the gunk off of it.   wiggle whatever you can get your
> hand on (rotation).   that'll usually be the cage.
>
> Watch both rods - you should have very limited movement (it's in
> gear), and both rods should move at the same time.   you should be
> able to see the pin inside the bushes on the sides.
>
> Now have your friend wiggle the shifter - first left/right (rotation).
>   now watch those rods again.  if you see them slipping where they fit
> into the coupler, check the screws (and their recesses).    watch that
> pin in the bushing.     if you see -any- movement that's not directly
> translated to the trans rod, the coupler is bad.
>
> now have your friend wiggle forward/backward (but NOT pulling it out
> gear - you want both the trans end "tight" to see a problem).  look at
> the same stuff.  see any movement?
>
> your current problem -sounds- like a rotation issue - it's not
> rotating far enough to hit reverse.  (1/2 3/4 and R are the 3 rotated
> positions.  front/rear engages 1/2 and 3/4 and R from the neutral
> position).   Slop in the coupler is the classic problem.
>
>
> That said - there are other couplers.  There's one behind the front
> beam that connects the front rod to the rear rod (removable so you can
> take the beam out).    that one is solid, and generally not a problem
> except when you want to take it apart.   But eyeball it.
>
>
> Then there's the ball/socket at the bottom of the shifter, and the
> bushing at the front (front is front) of that socket on the short part
> of the rod.   That bushing can let the socket fall down too far,
> changing the amount of rotation (changes the lever length).   Grab the
> socket end under the shifter and wiggle it - you should see the pin to
> the front and should be able to see if it's sloppy.
>
> Then there's the socket itself - it could be worn or torn.   have your
> friend put the trans in neutral, then hold the shifter still.   wiggle
> (rotate) the rod and watch for excess movement.   also wiggle
> front/rear. there should be some (it's old, after all) - but not much.
>
> -If- something got damaged from excessive force on the shifter - I'd
> point at the socket on the rod after checking the coupler...     You
> might try giving it a squeeze with a big pair of channel locks to see
> if it closes up any and the slop goes away.  if it does, obviously
> it's bad (torn) and you need a front rod section (or to try to weld it
> up, but....).
>
>
> Anyway. just guesses - more than likely it's the coupler.....
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