[T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)

[Michael]

In daughter's 75 bus, we pulled the engine for a clutch redo- In the 
past after engine redo at Jon's Motors we pulled it to replace a trans, 
but then pulled them together.  Easy reinstall, but all that removal of 
axles, shift stuff....
    The bus was driven onto 3 2X8's nailed to form a ramp.  Front is 
jacked up to get bus level again. Using a motorcycle jack was easy, had 
to remove all the top stuff on the engine, even the coil, and then that 
@&(^&$$# oil fill pipe- it rubs on the body beam behind the engine when 
you pull back far enough to clear transhaft.  With trans mounted above, 
you cannot easily let it down as on our 71 bus.  As engine came out, we 
had to change the angle of the bus (let front down) to clear the beam as 
we pulled/jacked down.  After clutch redo (think the o-ring in flywheel 
was flat, letting oil to clutch) I decided to replace /inspect clutch 
cable.  Then I noticed cable from PEX that BusDepot sells was much 
thinner than what was there or that Italian one I had gotten years 
before as spare for our 78 camper. Old thicker one looked fine, length 
was same so it was put back with lots of grease.
    Reinstall was done using that $59 aluminum jack from Harbor Freight, 
as it sits lower to ground and still can be jacked high enough with bus 
on the 4.5" ramp.  Unlike the motorcycle jack it is easier to tip engine 
if needed. The usual slide engine under bus, use digging bar on a 
fulcrum of 6x6 deck beam cutoff to lift one side under BALANCE POINT of 
engine and insert a $x4 piece under heater box.  Repeat other side. Lift 
again with 2x4 on fulcrum, etc until engine was up enough to  slide jack 
under with a plyboard hunk under engine to protect fins/strainer plate. 
Again the oil fill pipe was an issue- it hits the beam and you must goof 
around tipping engine back as you slide forward at right height to let 
shaft enter center of clutch release plate. Very vexing, as I laid 
underneath calling out "Left, right" and noting center of shaft before 
friend could push- and watching when lower studs on trans enter the 
engine holes, the angle must be adjusted to get things parallel.  Then 
we couldn't push any more- turned engine, etc but it was over 1/2" short 
so no bolt ends showed.  Pretty sure clutch splines were on shaft, as 
you could turn engine and it binds when in gear.  At 70 yr old, this was 
enough for me- I slid a ground down carriage bolt above starter and a 
capbolt on other side each `1.5" longer than stock, and friend got the 
nuts on to start pulling in engine.  Then rubbing was noted (due to 
angle as lower bolts were not pulling in)  Quit- now I may try lowering 
front of bus so weight of engine will pull lower studs in?.  Arrgghhh
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MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
78 VW Westfalia Camper