[T2] engine oil pump / second oil cooler , engine improvement

[Mike]

Hi,

Mandatory sounds odd; I don't recall seeing this - could you please point
to the source? I'm running hydraulics in my T4 2.0L... my first 2+ hour run
with the engine was this weekend, and pressure was great even after pushing
the engine to see how it would manage. By pushing, I mean extended periods
of 75-80mph down to 65-70mph, in sunny 85F weather. Passing folks I used to
get stuck behind and pulling uphill is wicked. She shed oil and head heat
well.

I did a *ton *of reading on this - for late model bays, so I'm not certain
on case differences between our rigs - consensus was as mentioned: Stock is
adequate if not the best choice, unless you're trying to build a monster
engine (which may not shed heat well enough to survive anyway). If it seems
particularly worn, the Samba fellow Phil I mentioned can assist. I did
this, and it appears to have been a great choice. You can somewhat gauge
the wear of the pump by the depth/ frequency of grooves within and slop
when the pump is sealed; I honestly don't have the clearance specs off the
top of my head.

Tangent: Please be aware that you may run into clearance issues with an
aftermarket cam and a stock T4 oil pump between the aftermarket cam gears
bolts (even if the cam gear bolts are low-profile) and the pump bolts or
the fixed shaft of the driven gear (where the drive gear is the one
interacting with/ tabbed into the cam) if it sticks out of the oil pump
casing (which may also indicate it needs to be persuaded inwards). Some
Dremel'ing may be in order - so check fitment before sealing the case
halves. I did not; while it appeared* I had clearance needed, I had to
split the case (and clean sealant, etc.) to make mods and be sure.  *Using
Silly Putty, it appears I had cut away what was needed, but my OCD
pressured me into seeing it clearly, so I tore the case apart.

That said, provided the oil galleys line up, there's no end force on the
pump drive shaft (Dremel mod may be needed hear to avoid this), the pump
drive gear tab seats far enough in cam groove, no clearance issues with an
aftermarket cam gear bolts (can still happen apparently), or case fitment
issues (I found this with a loaner T1 pump, where the pump OD was a touch
too small for the case), then a T1 should work. If you're determined to go
full-flow, a 30mm should do it. Some reading on T1 pumps <
http://www.billsbangers.com/vwbilltodd/oilpumps.html>. You may need
different sized & stepped case studs, and have to find and modify the T1
cover by cutting a corner off if the pump doesn't come with one, along with
aforementioned concerns.

For me, despite the clearance issue I ran into, I was more confident
sticking with stock for my rebuild, especially after Phil blueprinted it. I
have some pics of the clearance issues I can pitch if useful.




On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 1:07 AM, C. Dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net> wrote:

> I would go with Jim's recommendations too. I have also seen info about the
> cast iron pumps being problematic. Most likely on this list at one time or
> another.
>
> Chris
>
> Scientists seek to understand what is,
> while engineers seek to create what never was.
> As the "Bad Astronomer" Phil Plait says, "Teach a man to reason, and he
> can think for a lifetime."
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Old Volks Home" <oldvolkshome at gmail.com>
> To: "Christophe Guilbert" <cguilbert at picasso.ucsf.edu>
> Cc: "Type 2 List" <type2 at type2.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 9:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [T2] engine oil pump / second oil cooler , engine improvement
>
>
> Ah, you have a 2.0 Type 4 engine.  Totally different from the 1600 based
> engine.  Melling makes a heavy duty pump for that, but has a major problem
> -  It is made of cast iron, so the heat expansion rate of the aluminum case
> and the cast iron is so different, that leaks abound (ask me how I know).
>  The stock Type 4 pump is adequate for the additional cooler.  In my
> installation on my ex-80 Vanagon, it worked very well....in fact too well
> that I had to install an oil thermostat on the supply line to the cooler.
>  Don't run the engine oil too cool, otherwise you will have lubrication
> problems.
>
> Just my nickel's worth
>
> Jim Thompson
> 84 GL 1.9 "Gloria"
> 84 Westfalia 2.1 "Ole Putt"
> 72 411 Station Wagon "Pug"
> 75 914 1.8 "Nancy"
> Full Timing From March 1999 To January 2012
> oldvolkshome at gmail.com
> http://www.oldvolkshome.com
> Find me on Facebook:
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> ***********************************
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 8:27 PM, Christophe Guilbert <
> cguilbert at picasso.ucsf.edu> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the info Chris,
> > I could not find the info on Gen Berg's site. However I find out on his
> > webpage that a 30mm oil pumps is mandatory with all hydraulic cams and
> > lifters to maintain proper constant pressure in the lifter. He even
> > recommand to use a different oil pressure relief cover to protect the
> > engine.
> > Does any one has any comment on it ? Should I use a 30 mm oil pumps and
> > corresponding pressure relief in my 2L type 4 engine ?
> > Thanks
> > Chris
>