RE: [T2] Loose Shifter

["Robert Wallace" <Wallace.Bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

There's been a lot of stuff about gear shift problems today, and some of the
answers are I think a little misleading and would indicate that the problems
are normal or are more difficult to solve than they really are. (that's not
to say that any of the previous replies are specifically wrong though)

Problem:	sloppy shift stick
Fix:		This is not normal - movement of the top of the stick should not
exceed 35mm with gear engaged, 70mm in neutral

Problem:	Hitting your hand on the hand brake
Fix:		This does not indicate that its time to adjust the stick. The correct
adjustment for the stick is with the lower part vertical in 2nd gear; if you
then rap your knuckle on the hand brake its because the hand brake is not
correctly adjusted (six clicks out should be fully engaged). Adjustment of
the stick position is very easy, put into 2nd gear, loosen the two bolts
visible in cab at base of stick, adjust for lower part of stick to be
vertical, tighten bolts, check that movement between first and second is
directly fore and aft on the van, if not repeat adjustment providing a twist
to the base of the stick. This is in fact adjusting the position of the stop
plate (see below). This adjustment is only done once after to greasing the
ball at the base of the stick, or stop plate replacement.

Problem:	The stick wobbles 'violently' accompanied by rattling from below
the floor
Fix:		Most likely culprit is the where the front of the shift rod is secured
to the floor. Could be just the replacement of a bushing (changes at 74
model year). Although reference to the list archives shows that at least one
listee has had the mounting point completely detach from the underside of
the floor.

Problem:	Difficulty selecting gears
Fix:		If its possible to select gears while stationary but not while moving
then check the adjustment of the clutch cable as a loose cable will prevent
disengagement of the drive when the pedal is pressed. A cable going loose is
the usual precursor of its' immanent total failure - check and replace it or
its' fittings as necessary.
Next most likely culprit is the rear shift rod bushing. This is fairly easy
to change (an hour allows for the old one being rusted up). There is no need
to remove the engine and transmission to do this; there is no need to even
move them a little bit. Extra room can be gained by simply putting the van
in first or third before you start the work - this also has the advantage of
holding the shaft that goes into the gear box still while you work on it.
Other culprits could be the front shift rod bushing or the joint between
front and rear shift rods being loose.

Problem:	Going into reverse without pressing down on the stick, or difficult
dropping from 3rd to second (especially going up hill with a car right
behind you!)
Fix:		This indicates the shaped section of the stick which is supposed to
prevent leftwards movement is not hitting the stop plate. It could be simply
that the stop plate is not adjusted correctly, see above. If adjusted to the
correct position then either the stick or the stop plate is excessively
worn.
Undo the two bolts at the base of the stick and pull stick up. The worn part
will be obvious, replace with a good part(s) they don't cost much.

Problem:	Stuck in gear or completely unable to select a gear
Fix:		Check front mountings and rear coupler, if OK then its time to drop
the engine and gearbox to remove the nose cone and examine the selector
mechanism. Early T2s had a bracket that was prone to failure - replace if
possible with the latter design although replacement parts in this area may
be limited. There is also a small rubber grommet in an eye at the top of the
selector into which the end of the shift rod fits (this inner end is known
as the hockey stick due to its shape). The hockey stick can come out of a
worn grommet - replace grommet and reassemble. Other broken parts inside the
nose cone should be replaced.

Problem:	Bushings inside of the shift rod tube.
Fix:		My experience is that if the stop plate, front bushing and rear
coupler are good then these bushings have little effect. As its necessary to
remove the engine and gearbox to change them do it when the engines out for
another reason.


Most of these things have happened to me on my previous T2 and none (except
the hockey stick coming out of the grommet) are difficult to fix. Bushings,
stop plate, rear coupler are all readily available and one afternoon would
suffice to do everything that does not involve dropping the engine.

Good luck
Bob Wallace
Bristol UK
1998 T2