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Re: [T2] Starter won't disengage AND continues to run when key is switched OFF - SOLUTION !!!
Last week I posted my problem and I appreciate the almost immediate
responses I received from:
Jules - sticky solenoid
Dave "Busahaulic" Pearson supplied me an off-list picture of the connections
on the starter
VWBrain - mark d - suggestion that the battery wire is touching the
ignition wire
I was so sure that the starter was the problem that I purchased and install a
rebuilt one. The following is what happened when the newly installed starter
exhibited the same problem as the old one.
Since rapping on the solenoid with the end of a wrench didn't solve the
problem I moved on to Dave's picture, crawled under the bus and said to myself
"yep, thats what mine looks like".
After reading VWBrain's post again I crawled back under to take another look
and knew immediately that he had given me the info that just might make for an
easy solution.
When I originally tightened the connection from the battery - the cable with
the very large ring connector end - the metal ring connector had rotated
enough to touch the spade connection on the wire coming from the ignition
switch. After getting that ring connector loosened, repositioned, and
tightened (without having the thing rotate again) the problem appears to have
been solved.
It may be that the first starter had a ring connector which became loose
enough to cause the initial problem. I've not bothered to reinstall and check
that starter; I'll get around to that later. For now I'm happy that things
seem to be OK - thanks to suggestions I received.
With Dave's permission I'm posting our off list Q&A
Busahaulic wrote:
Not a problem, Pat... I think most everyone has seen that graphic at least
a few times and since we can't post binaries, I've been just sending them to
people I think they can help as needed.
I'm surprised it didn't burn out the solenoid and/or the starter. Guess
you were quick enough on disconnecting the battery.
I added a pushbutton starter switch from West Marine back in the engine
compartment. Hooked to "B" & "A". Helpful when adjusting ignition points. Also
helpful when the solenoid refuses to kick in.
I was going through a Bosch reman starter every 13 months (24 max!) [Yes -
a 12 month warranty] It occurred to me that the solenoids were always failing
- not the starters. I found a starter / alternator shop who sold me a solenoid
(new) and my troubles were over.
With the long trip from the solenoid to the key switch and all the way
back again, plus worn key switch contacts, plus corrosion at all the wire
ends, the voltage drop is phenomenal. Some people add a "hot start" relay (any
relay capable of handling a few amps and powered by 12VDC) My bus would always
"get back" at me when I drove him hard. I knew it was coming, but eventually I
would slip up and park over a mud puddle or a big oil puddle or such, and he'd
get me! The trick, when the solenoid won't kick in, is to take the bus out of
gear, key on or off - whichever way you prefer... Crawl under the bus just
ahead of the RR wheel with wrench or screwdriver in hand. Pull the connector
off "A" then use the tool in hand to short from "A" to "B". The solenoid will
kick in. If you have the key on, the engine will start. If you leaft the key
off, the solenoid will now be loose and will likely work when you climb back
in the drivers seat and turn the key (If you
didn't forget to re-attach the "A" connection!)
Once I added the starter switch in the engine compartment, I only needed
to use it once! The bus knew it was futile after that! Later I got the new
solenoid.
I'm telling you all this because it is probably the very next problem you
will have with the starter!
One more oddball thing I may as well tell you about now - the hazard
warning switch is haunted. All of them are. If your engine keeps running after
you shut off the switch, pull the hazard light switch to the on position and
seat it to OFF rather abruptly (don't break it any more than it probably
already is - they aren't cheap and aren't widely available!)
Not normal to have it cause engine run-on, but it did for me after I
installed my Subey engine. I still don't have a good handle on how, but it was
somehow connected with the alternator circuit as well! The "NORMAL"
malfunction of the 4-way switch is to cause the turn signals to cease
functioning. Scenario: You used the hazard warning lights and then shut them
off and continue to drive. Next time you use your turn signals, they work, but
don't flash - just stay on solid. Smack the hazard warning switch to seat it
better and the turn signals start flashing.
Oh- when you stack all those wires back on the "B" post at the solenoid,
don't let the thin red wire sneak off and hide - it always did on me - If you
leave it off, the alternator won't charge and the ALT light on the dashboard
will stay lit.
Can't think of anything else off hand to help you along. Good luck. You'll
need it! -BaH
-Dave "Busahaulic" Pearson (BaH)
'79 "Bussy" (BUSARU 2.2);'74 "Bus2"
Hailing from Renton, Washington
--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Pat Harris - "sammler" <sammler@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Pat Harris - "sammler" <sammler@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [T2] Starter won't disengage AND continues to run when key is
switched OFF
To: "Busahaulic" <busahaulic01@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 3:25 PM
Thank you Dave; with your help I may have been able to solve
the
problem. I must first allow the battery to recharge in
order to test
BUT what I found was that the spade connection at the A
spade on the
periphery was being touched by the lug connector mounted on
the B post.
When I tightened the nut on the B post it caused the lug to
rotate and
touch the spade connector - I have moved the spade
connection located a
bit inboard. If this is the solution do you mind if I post
our Q&A to
the list?
Thank you,
Pat
Busahaulic wrote: Attached pic may be of help
-Dave "Busahaulic" Pearson (BaH)
'79 "Bussy" (BUSARU 2.2);'74
"Bus2"
Hailing from Renton, Washington
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