Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 19:01:04 -0800
From: Mike West <mwest@CDSNET.NET>
Subject: Using a Srobe Timing Light

Seem to be a lot of people who are unclear as to operating the
Stobe timing light.

So I thought, being the holidays and all . . . . .

I'll tell you all . .  l about it!   :-)

There are two types, don't get the other one.  :-)

There really are, theres an inductive type that has a square
looking clamp on the end of the plug-wire wire.

And another type that you have to pull the connector off the
plug and jam this spring in there, plug the wire into the other
end of the spring and then clip this alligator to the spring.

What a drag.

The inductive type, that just reads thru the wire is getting so
cheap that it is hardly worthwhile getting the "other one".

So you have this new stoboscopic timing light and wish to put it
to use.

Go back in the back and open'er up.

Walk back around and get your prayer rug that you kneel on.

Spin all the stuff around till you can see the marks. V-notches
in the pulley.

Some have one and some even have three!

Take your white chalk or yellow marking crayon and rub it down
in the notches. Now wipe off the outside and you just have a
highlight in the notch.

You can leave a mark on the surface to make it easier to find
but your real mark is that "V".

Forgot about a power source. These things are electric you know.

There are two types of those also. 12 volt and 110 volt.

Until recently I would have said go with the 110 v. but the
new 12 volt lights are pretty decent as far as seeing them, so
I like that kind now.

You have a red and green lead for power, or red and black.

Whatever you have you clamp the ground (green or black) to the
frame somewhere. I usually use the bumper bracket.

Scrape it back and forth a few times to get good contact.

The hot lead, (usually red) you hook to the plus side of the
coil. I have hooked it to the generator but I know that is not
a good idea.

The clamp for the #1 plug wire can be put over the wire where
ever it's convenient. As long as you're sure it's the #1.

Trace it back to make sure. For the new guy, #1 is in front on
the right hand side.

Just slip it over the wire and let it hang there.

Make sure none of this stuff is going to start rotating at 1000
rpm when the engine starts. That's embarrassing and hard on the
strobe light.  :-)

Now you go up and fire up the engine. Actually you should have
had the engine pre-warmed for this exercise, if not then warm
it up to operating temp.

How long? hell, I don't know, what's the weather like?

Just get it good and hot. This is the other reason I don't like
the spring type hook-up. You now have to reach back in there to
#1 plug and pull the connector and put the spring on etc.

It's not only dirty, it's hot in there.

Did you set the points before all this? You better have.

OK so we have the engine warm and started and have the
v-notches hi-lighted.

You go back there and point the light at your eye and pull the
trigger. Go on . . . it won't blind you!

Does it flash? Cool! . . . . If it doesn't flash, check your
connections, generally that ground.

When it's flashing properly, point it at the crank pulley there
where the case halves meet (timing line for type 1).

If all is well, you will see your timing mark on the pulley in
the vicinity of the case line.

The strobe is only coming on when #1 fires which is why this
works.

The timing mark is off a tad, so you whip your 10 mm socket out,
loosen the bolt under the dizzy and tweak the dizzy around just
a hair while you watch the light/marks.

If you're going the wrong direction, the pulley mark will get
farther away from the line. Turn it the other way and it will
come back and sit right on the line of the case.

When it's where it should be, tighten the bolt under the dizzy
and check it again.

Shut the puppy down and remove your strobe and tools.

Go grin at the better half and tell her how you made it all more
better.   :-)

That's it.

west