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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 15:42:31 -0800
From: Richard Atwell <ratwell_at_mac_dot_com>
To: Type2 <type2_at_type2_dot_com>
Message-ID: <BA3619E7.1B35%ratwell_at_mac_dot_com>
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Subject: Smog and EGR [passed]

I just came back from the smog referee with my Canadian model Westy.  This
is a really long post with lots of detail for future smogees.

First, thanks to Roland, Doyt and Charles for their advice.  As it turned
out my EGR valve was open at idle and it was a simple fix.

* How the valve works

On my 78, lever left means the valve is closed, lever right means valve
closed and somewhere in the middle it's open.  I should have guessed when I
saw the spring in the linkage to the throttle: this would allow the throttle
to continue to open while the valve closed.

Somehow when I revved the engine high the valve managed to stick in the open
position relative to my previous adjustment.

Don't follow the Bentley exactly and use RPM and a guide to adjust the
linkage to the EGR valve.  Use a vacuum gauge before installation, during
and after adjustment. You'll think it's closed but it may still be open and
a low vacuum reading will indicate this.  Moving the lever back and forth by
hand a few times seemed to correct my problem.

* Re-fitting the EGR system

I had trouble refitting all the components.  Mine had rusted away a long
time back.  The old muffler was pinched off at the egr port, the filter
removed, and the pipe to the valve cut and folded over.  The pipe, I found
in the junkyard; the filter I obtained from Bus Depot and I found new
gaskets from Bus Boys.

Just as my aftermarket 75-78 eliminator muffler's poor fit and incorrectly
welded exhaust hanger gave me trouble when I put it on, it reared it's ugly
head again trying to line up the EGR port to the filter.  You'll need a 2nd
person to make the job easier.

There are 3 types of gaskets needed :

http://homepage.mac_dot_com/ratwell/.Pictures/MoreParts4/122-EGRGaskets.jpg

Another thing to be aware of is that the EGR filter came with two headless
screws that weren't secured to the flange on the filter like the original.
You'll need to use Locktite or something.  You can see two nuts I put on in
this picture but later realized that they make the screws too short.

http://homepage.mac_dot_com/ratwell/.Pictures/MoreParts4/121-EGRFilter.jpg

Because I had a poor fit I had to use two gaskets where the filter meets the
muffler to eliminate my exhaust leaks.  A lot of smoke come out after
starting up the engine but soon went away.

My advice is to give yourself lots of time to get everything right.

* Regulations

It seems the local smog stations (gas stations, repair shops etc) can smog
an out of state vehicle but if it's from Canada the VIN seems to fall
outside the U.S. VIN range for that model year and the computer system
knows.

You need to call the Bureau of Automotive Repair's 800 number and they'll
make an appointment at a Consumer Assistance and Referee center for you.

I found out that it doesn't matter to California that you imported into
another state anytime in the past and legally registered your vehicle there.
As far as they are concerned you still need the conformity certificate from
the vehicle manufacturer stating that it complies with federal safety and US
EPA regulations.

What I found interesting was that every other car at the test center during
my time there was a kit car (mostly Cobras) thanks to recent changes in law:

http://165.235.17.9/StdPage.asp?Body=/Geninfo/Laws_And_Regulations/Legislati
on.htm

This raised my interest and I asked the tech about changing the engine. He
said don't even think about putting a South African Jetta motor in because
they won't pass it for some reason he didn't give.  I know this is a popular
Vanagon upgrade so you may want to avoid buying one of those out of state.
He said to go with the Subaru if you want to be able to pass smog.  The
process further complicates when the VW engine or exhaust are from
mismatched model years.  It seems you can put on new components but not
older: this basically means you're screwed if you are a PO removed the FI
and put carbs on.

What they do at the referee center is the same as any other smog check shop:
1) consult a book for specifics on model year, do a visual check, 2) do a
functional check then perform 3) an exhaust test but not on the dyno.

They give you a certificate ($8.25) if you pass the test ($30) to take to
the DMV and send you on your way after affixing a specially printed sticker
to your engine compartment so you can smog again at a location of your
choice in future.  If you fail you can come back to the referee again for
one free test.

* The smog test

I PASSED! I was at the referee for 2 hours and it was nerve wracking. Here's
what happened:

After the visual inspection, the tech checked the timing and told me that it
was 9 degrees.  He said the allowed range was +/- 3 degrees or you fail
instantly.  I thought his reading of 9 was odd because I set it to 7.5 BTDC
but it seems that the scale isn't accurate.  Sure enough when I got home I
set it to 6 on the scale and it's probably closer to 7.5 now.  I can feel
the difference.

I thought they would concentrate on the exhaust pipes etc. but the
inspection was focused on the engine bay.  They took off the access cover to
see if all the components were there.  They thought my engine was a little
too clean and probably wondered if it was original.

The test was really long, as it wasn't on their dyno which I was expecting.
They run the vehicle tests at idle and approx. 2500RPM to measure %CO2, %O2,
HC(PPM) and %CO.

After this, they tested the gas cap with a vacuum tester to see if it sealed
properly.  I wasn't expecting this test.  I thought they would only look for
a fill restrictor on a CA model.

When they came back they said I failed the %CO test and my heart sank.  The
spec was 1% +- 0.5 but I measured 3.5% and the limit was 2.5%.  The test is
very lenient compared to a new car and I find it interestig they don't do a
NO(PPM) test which the EGR is designed to reduce.

What happened next was one of the longest hours of my life.  Maybe I like my
bus too much.

They said that the mixture was too rich and this was causing the %CO to
become too high at idle.  During the test they rev up the van, then let off
the gas pedal and watched the %CO number climb on the monitor of the exhaust
analyzer.

I asked them how the mixture was adjust and they said that I needed the
service manual to find out so I offered to bring it in. ADVICE: take you
Bentley with you.

They offered to adjust the mixture for me but gave no guarantees. They
turned the screw about a complete turn until the exhaust analyzer gave a
good reading then they repeated the test again and I passed it.  It's still
a little rich but I'll take care of that well before the next test. I'm sure
glad the next time isn't for another 2 years.

My advice to anyone doing this for the first time would be to try to get a
pre-test done at a VW mechanic with an exhaust analyzer so you can be sure
the mixture is not too rich.  The pre-tests are often $10 with a coupon and
there is no record put into the computer if you fail.

* Archive Summary

I read over about 113 messages in the archives searching on smog and EGR
before I went to the referee.  I thought I'd post them here as a summary
with my experience:

- EGR equipment is mandatory to pass the visual part of the smog test

- The functional test requires undoing the linkage to test if the rpms drop
when the valve is opened.  Some shops either don't do this or believe it
can't be tested.

- The valve allows exhaust gas to enter the combustion chamber to reduce NOx
pollutants.  At idle the valve is closed and also at full throttle.  If the
valve is open by incorrect adjustment at idle then a large amount of
un-metered air will "leak" and the vacuum will lower considerably.

- This air leak at partial throttle doesn't seem to be a problem, it has the
effect of causing the bus to run leaner but because it's exhaust gas the
overall result are lower combustion temperature.  Overall this is supposedly
good for the engine if the smog parts last but the tech thought it was a
useless add on even though it has to be there legally.

- There is a noticeable lag when you accelerate from stop when the EGR
system is attached compared to not having the system attached.

- Because the valve is closed at idle any adjustments to the air/fuel
mixture should have no effect when the EGR system is attached.  If it does,
then the valve isn't properly adjusted at idle and blocking the EGR valve
later will affect the mixture.

- The filters and tubing quickly rust out and the material in the filter to
trap exhaust particles breaks down quickly.  The pipe from the filter and
the air plenum gets clogged over time with soot because of the inefficiency
of the filter design.  They are a PITA to clean.

- The pipe from the filter to the valve gets hot from the exhaust gas.  If
it's cold nothing is coming through from further down the line.  It will get
warm even if the valve is closed.  A tech could determine the equipment is
not working in the crudest sense by seeing if the tube is cold to the touch.

- For my bus anyway, the filters are still available (021131617F) for $120
but you'll have to find the pipe at the junkyard from a compatible year.
The EGR valve itself is NLA but can be rebuilt or bought used/rebuilt from
<http://www.smogparts_dot_com/> or so I hear. Parts are becoming less available
as time goes by so get them before you bring your bus here to CA.

-- 
Richard
1978 Westfalia CDN
Cupertino, CA